GRADING (Alpine/Fitness): TD+/5 (click for more grading info)

COST. . .

$33000 P/P USD

Note – Minimum of 8 week of hypoxic training mandatory

Deposit: $7000 required


  • 1:1 IFMGA Guide with at least 1X Manaslu summits, express guided expeditions, several 8000M to 7000M – 6000M experiences
  • or 1:1 NNMGA Guide with at least 3X Manaslu guided summits, express guided expeditions, several 8000M to 7000M – 6000M experiences
  • 10 weeks of hypoxic training. Hypoxic equipment rentals provided, 12 weeks of training program and consultation by the World’s leading altitude center.
  • Shared 🚁 Helicopter In Kathmandu – Samagaon/Out from BC – Kathmandu
  • 6X Supplemental Oxygen
  • An additional guide to assist with logistics for Camp 1 – 4
  • Small team with a higher degree of Flexibility, independence, and support system


Autumn 2024

16th September – 9th October

Booking closes on 1st July 2023


Manaslu 8163M is the eighth-highest mountain in the world, situated in the east of the Annapurna region in Nepal. It is known as “The Mountain of Spirits” and offers an opportunity for aspiring mountaineers to tackle an 8000-meter altitude climb for the first time. Achieve this remarkable feat in 21 days or less. Our express programs cater specifically to those individuals who harbor the profound desire to ascend Manaslu but face time constraints that prevent them from committing to the conventional 40-45 day itinerary.

To embark on our express expedition, clients must first engage in a rigorous 8-10 weeks of at-home hypoxic acclimatization. We provide the necessary hypoxic equipment rentals as part of the expedition package (shipping cost apply), ensuring you have all the tools needed for a successful climb. If you plan to tackle it before a bigger expedition like Mt. Everest, G2, Manaslu is a perfect mountaineering challenge to prepare for any of the 8000M expeditions. The climb through the death zone to the summit is a must for those considering other major expeditions.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M – 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c, and Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4.

Our express expedition starts with a helicopter flight to Samagaun, a village at an altitude of 3690 meters, on the third day of the trip. After a day of acclimatization in the village, we will begin our ascent to the Manaslu base camp at 4800 meters, where our camps will have already been set up by our expedition management, Sherpa, and Porter teams. Please see the Manaslu Expedition strategy for more detailed information on climbing strategies.

This expedition is also a part of our “Road to EVEREST program, the Manalsu Expedition being the final preparation expedition before taking on the Big E.

*History: Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition.

Note: While this achievement opens up exciting possibilities, it’s essential to maintain our focus on a well-rounded approach to climbing. Our goal isn’t just speed; it’s about combining all the essential elements of a safe and successful ascent, while also embracing the speed climbing factor. Safety remains our paramount concern during every expedited climb.


  • 1:1 Guide/client ratio. IFMGA certified guide with express guiding experiences, at least 1X Manaslu & several 8000M+ Summits, high level of support, experience, and guiding knowledge for Everest and Lhotse climb.
  • Manaslu 8163M True Summit
  • 8 Weeks of Personalised hypoxic altitude training & acclimatization
  • North East face route
  • 🚁 Shared helicopter before and after the expedition
  • 1:1 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
  • Camp 1 – 4 strategy with rotation and rest days


Day 1 Arrival and Gear Check day

Day 2 🚁 Kathmandu – Samagaon (Shared)

Day 3 Acclimatisation day

Day 4 Trek to Camp 1

Day 5 Climb to Camp 2 (Supplemental O2)

Day 6 Climb to Camp 3

Day 7 – 8 Back to BC and rest day

Day 9 – 18 Summit push day

Day 19 Back to base camp

Day 20 Fly back to Kathmandu via Helicharter (Shared)

Day 21 Departure

Day 22 – 25 Contingency days


Day 1 and 20 (Kathmandu – Hotel Manaslu)


Harnessing cutting-edge advancements in medical science and pioneering technologies, an increasing number of ambitious souls can now embark on an extraordinary journey to climb Manaslu within an expedited timeframe. The results have been unequivocally demonstrated, leading us to firmly believe that the time has come for the inception of the express expedition itinerary. This revolutionary approach shall become the new standard for those bound by time constraints, recognizing that not everyone possesses the luxury of unlimited time, the most invaluable of commodities.

Through the meticulously guided implementation of pre-hypoxic acclimatization and comprehensive training preparation, the once elusive goal of summiting Manaslu in 25 Days or less has been transformed into a tangible reality. Each member of our esteemed team will receive personalized consultations, expert guidance, and specialized training programs from the world’s leading athletic laboratory, located in London. With an unwavering dedication to your success, we proudly present the Ama Dablam Express expedition, offering an exclusive opportunity to partake in this extraordinary feat. To facilitate your training, participants will be granted access to cutting-edge altitude training equipment from the UK’s foremost specialists. Detailed instructions for equipment setup, along with personalized online consultations and individually tailored training programs, specifically designed to fast-track your Everest expedition, shall be provided.

For our members based in London membership access to the center can be provided and throughout the United Kingdom, personal access to the center is readily available upon schedule (Additional cost applies). Alternatively, for our members abroad, gear rentals can be efficiently shipped (shipping costs + customs apply), complemented by scheduled online meetings to ensure seamless communication and support throughout your transformative journey.


Participating members will embark on an exceptional journey guided by a personal consultation with a dedicated representative from Namas, alongside a professional member of our esteemed altitude training center who previously have experience working with express climbing summiteers. Together, we will provide you with invaluable guidance, expertise, and support to ensure your transformational experience reaches its full potential. This personalized consultation will pave the way for a tailored approach that aligns with your unique aspirations and sets the stage for an extraordinary adventure of a lifetime.


In order to ensure the highest level of readiness and safety, acceptance into the program will be granted to participating members following a thorough assessment and consultation process. It is imperative that client members meet our established pre-requisite requirements, and their personal fitness profiles will be meticulously evaluated. These pre-checks, consultations, and preparations form the bedrock of our approach, as they are vital components for successfully undertaking the Manaslu expedition within a condensed timeframe.

A significant focus will be placed on comprehensive pre-acclimatization and training methodologies. These pivotal elements will empower participants to adapt to the demanding altitude conditions and optimize their physical preparedness. By prioritizing these crucial aspects, we equip our members with the tools and resilience needed to conquer the formidable challenges that lie ahead on their extraordinary Manaslu express climbing journey.


Hypoxic chamber acclimatization: Minimum 8 weeks, 10 weeks recommended.

Participating members will engage in a comprehensive hypoxic acclimatization and training regimen lasting for a minimum of 8 weeks (recommended duration max 10 weeks) to facilitate adaptation. The specific acclimatization timeline and training objectives will be tailored to each member’s individual profile, and it is essential that these targets are diligently met to ensure the success of the express climb. Optimal results are achieved when participants commit to a longer duration (10 weeks) of deliberate hypoxic chamber acclimatization, enhancing their ability to adapt effectively before commencing the renowned Manaslu base camp journey and embarking on the fast-track ascent to the summit.


BASE CAMP 4800M TO CAMP 1 (5600M – 5700M)

Manaslu BC

Manaslu BC

On the third day of our expedition, we will take a Jeep – trek or helicopter flight from Kathmandu to Sama Gaun, a village at an altitude of 3690 meters. After acclimatizing for a day in the village, we will begin our hike to the Manaslu base camp at 4800 meters, where our camps will have already been set up by our expedition management, Sherpa, and porter teams. The base camp will serve as our home for the next 25-28 days, and preparations for the climb will have been completed months in advance. Our team will be ready to welcome clients, providing them with a comfortable place to eat, rest, relax, and have fun. We will ascend the mountain via the North-East Face, using four camps along the way. After a few days of acclimatization, training, and a puja ceremony, our group will head to camp 1. The climbers will follow a rugged uphill path that takes them through a moraine and a crevassed glacier to reach camp 1. The views from the base camp are breathtaking, with the Himalayas dominating the landscape in all directions.

CAMP 1 (5600M – 5700M) – CAMP 2 (6300M – 6400M)

The climb from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a challenging and strenuous ascent that involves ascending moderate-angled snow slopes on the lower reaches and a short steep slope above Camp 1. This section of the climb requires full focus and may take anywhere from 5 to 7 hours or more, depending on the individual climber. Upon arrival at Camp 2, located at an altitude of 6300-6400 meters, climbers will be treated to breathtaking views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks. From this vantage point, the surrounding mountains will feel close enough to touch.

CAMP 2 (6300M – 6400M) – CAMP 3 (6900M)


The route from Camp 2 to Camp 3 involves steady progress on snowy slopes, with a short but steep section just before arriving at the camp. The climb will take approximately 4-5 hours to complete. This day’s ascent is relatively straightforward, with no major obstacles to overcome.

CAMP 3 (6900M)  – CAMP 4 (7300M)


The route from Camp 3 to Camp 4 involves climbing a steep, vertical slope using fixed ropes and crampons to reach an altitude of 7300 meters. This part of the climb will take approximately 6-7 hours to complete. In order to acclimatize effectively, we will frequently rotate between higher and lower camps before making the final push to the summit. This strategy helps ensure that our bodies are properly adjusted to the high altitude and reduces the risk of altitude sickness.

CAMP 4 (7300M) – SUMMIT 8163M TO CAMP 2 (6300M – 6400M)

Manaslu Fore Summit

Manaslu Fore Summit

The journey from Camp 4 to the summit is less technical than the previous sections, but longer and requires more steady progress over a flowing snowy/icy slope. The views during this part of the climb are incredible, as climbers make their way to an altitude of 8000 meters. After approximately 6-8 hours of climbing, the team will arrive at the “false summit,” where many operators choose to end their ascent. However, the Namas Expedition Sherpa team will always aim to fix the rope to the “true summit,” the highest point of Manaslu at 8163 meters. This requires careful planning and decision-making due to the unstable nature of the ice/snow surface at the summit.


Descending the mountain is a relatively straightforward process, but equal care must be taken as climbers will be extremely tired after reaching the summit. Our main objective will be to safely reach Camp 2 by the afternoon or early evening hours. The following day, we will descend from Camp 2 to the base camp, which should take 3-4 hours. Our base camp team will be waiting to welcome us with cheers and celebration for our successful summit. After resting for a bit, we will enjoy a well-deserved warm meal prepared by our chef.

The return journey involves the same trek back down to Sama Gaun, followed by a night in the village before catching a helicopter back to Kathmandu. Upon arriving in Kathmandu, climbers will have an additional two nights for rest, showers, and celebrations before returning home.


  • NMA certified Guide leader
  • 6 Supplemental Oxygen Cylinders for client use
  • 8 to 10 Weeks of hypoxic rentals, personalized training, and acclimatization guidance from instructors. Additional Shipping costs apply.
  • Shared 🚁 Helicopter Charter From Kathmandu – Samagoan – Kathmandu
  • $1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) *Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security and staffs). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)*
  • Nama branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
  • 1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
  • Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
  • 1 night before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
  • All trekking and climbing permits (Manaslu Region Permit and TIMS)
  • All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
  • Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
  • 60 kgs personal weight
  • Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)
  • Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
  • Burners and expedition equipments
  • Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
  • Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
  • Lodge accommodation during the trek
  • Porters per guest
  • Arrival pick-up and departure
  • Basic First aid kit
  • Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner


  • Visas and travel insurance
  • Summit Bonus Tip ($1200 – $1500 P/P)
  • Entertainment and food ( Kathmandu )
  • Bottled drinks and beverages
  • Evacuation (will be done in your account)
  • Summit Tips
  • Single supplement Charges
  • Laundry, Phone services, Personal expenditure transactions
  • Optional trips
  • Tea breaks, chocolates or other snacks, and any meals besides breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
  • Delay and cancellation because of natural phenomenon
  • International flights to Kathmandu


Manaslu is a for enthusiast climbers who aims to go high into 8000M+. You will need your fitness and climbing skills to be able to look after yourself for long hours during the climb according to terrains. You should be able to take care of yourself even during the though climb session, eating well and staying hydrated from the start of the expedition, making sure your gears are in check and functional during the climb. Your Sherpa expedition leader will guide and motivate you throughout but a lot of the effort lies within your ability to climb and you will be liable to yourself. The more experience you have rock climbing tougher rotes in different types of rock the better it is for you to get familiar with climbing and adjusting during the expeditions.

• Abseiling. This is the simplest yet the one of the most important skills to master. Some multi – pitch abseiling knowledge/experience are also required

• Climbing on different terrains. Slab rocks, vertical rocks. Scrambling on steep terrains.

• Use of Crampons and Ice axe. Winter ice climbing upto WI 2-3 or mountaineering courses are recommended. You should be able to kick step and balance with ice axe on icy slopes to ascend on vertical climb. Ice arrest skills to save your self incase of slips or fall, being comfortable while descending and abseiling on crampons in all the terrains.

• Climbing in Altitude. Your prior experience in climbing should give you a good understanding of your body coping in the altitude. You will be liable to yourself so it is best to build you fitness up to the best level. Our itineraries are designed to be able to help you with proper acclimatisation but you will also have to be aware of your eating pattern and staying properly hydrated.

Previous experience of high altitude 4000M+ – 7000M+ mountaineering preferred.

ADD’S ON. . .

• Personal Sherpa – $5500

• Extra Oxygen with latest oxygen system X 2 bottle – $2000


Mountain climbing Gears

  • Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
  • Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
  • A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
  • Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
  • Rappel/belay device: ATC or figure 8
  • 10-12 point crampon

Mountaineering boots

  • Mountaineering boots suitable for above 8000m; La Sportiva or equivalent
  • Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
  • Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
  • Liner socks or equivalent: 6 pairs

Body Layers:

  • Expedition suits – North face Himalayan suit or similat
  • 4 merino base layers: top / bottom set
  • 5 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
  • Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
  • Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
  • Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
  • Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
  • Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
  • Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
  • Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
  • Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs

Headgear and Hand wear:

  • Wool hat (ski hat)
  • Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
  • Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
  • Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
  • Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
  • Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
  • Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
  • Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
  • Expedition Mitts for bad weather

Personal Gear:

  • Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
  • Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
  • Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
  • Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
  • High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
  • Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
  • Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
  • Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
  • Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
  • Spoon: Plastic spoon
  • Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
  • Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
  • Lip balm with sunblock
  • Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 litter capacity
  • Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
  • Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
  • Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
  • Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
  • Hand warmers & toe warmers
  • Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
  • Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
  • Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
  • Travel Clothes
  • Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
  • Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, smart phone, etc
  • Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
  • Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
  • Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*