ASCEND TWO TECHNICAL PEAKS.
LESS CROWDED CLIMBS
2024 CHOLATSE 6440M & KYA JO RI 6186M
22 – 27 DAYS
EQUIPMENT RENTALS AVAILABLE (LINK)
GRADING (Alpine/Fitness): TD/5 (click for more grading Infos)
COST—
Cholatse & Kyajo Ri
$10,950 P/P
Cholatse Only
$7950 P/P
Kyajo Ri only
$6500 P/P
Please inquire about prices in your local currency. We accept payment in £GBP/ €EUROS/ $AUD
Deposit required: $1500 p/p
Solo booking accepted but subject to 4 climbing members
2024 CHOLATSE DEPARTURES—
4th – 30th November
All-inclusive expedition. Guaranteed departure.
SINGLE SUPPLEMENT—
$4000 USD Only applies if there is only 1 client member. Additional support.
Embark on a thrilling ascent of the challenging peaks, Cholatse at 6440 meters and Kyajo Ri at 6186 meters. These technical summits in the Himalayas demand experience and confidence in handling steep, exposed sections with sheer drops of several hundred meters. The climbing route boasts a grade of WI2+ M3-4 A1-2, necessitating a skill level equivalent to climbing technical peaks at D+/-, 5.9/5.10-grade levels around the globe.
This expedition isn’t for novices but rather geared towards intermediate to advanced climbers who are seasoned in facing similar technical challenges. If you possess a solid climbing background and are ready to tackle demanding ascents, the Cholatse/Kyajo Ri expedition awaits your conquest.
Pre-requisite experiences (2 or more 6000M + multi-pitch climbing skills & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c (Similar 4000M – 6000M peaks or higher) and Ice climbing WI-2 to WI-4.
This expedition initially follows the classic Everest Base Camp trek route up to Namche, after which it veers towards the Thame Valley, guiding us to the Kyajo Ri base camp for our ascent. Kyajo Ri serves as a valuable acclimatization peak before we progress to our ultimate goal of summiting Cholatse. The base camp also facilitates the Taboche peak expedition, which can be considered as an extension trip.
This expedition is notably technical, involving numerous mixed sections, an exposed knife-edge ridge route, and breathtaking panoramic vistas of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from the summit. Our ascent will follow the South West ridge route, establishing Camp 1 and Camp 2 along the way. Be prepared for challenging and exposed climbing throughout this exhilarating expedition.
The route includes maneuvering through a small icefall, leading to an ice/snow headwall with a steep inclination of approximately 45-50 degrees, where our team will have secured a safety rope. This section will guide us up the Southwest Ridge entirely to the summit. We will strategically utilize two camps before embarking on the final summit bid.
History: First ascent made by a French team (Boris Badaroux, Philippe Batoux, Marc Challamel, Christophe Mora, Paul Robach (leader) via North Face in 1996.
EXPEDITION HIGHLIGHTS
- Cholatse 6440M & KyaJo Ri 6186M summits
- South-west ridge route, Camp 1 – 2 Strategy
- Return hike down the Khumbu Valley
- 1:2 climbing ratio at Kyajo Ri 6186M and 1:1 Guide/Client ratio on Cholatse
- Namche Bazaar, Thame, Phortse and Khumbu scenic views
ITINERARY
Day 1 & 2 Arrival. Briefing, gear check, and final preparations.
Day 3 Fly to Lukla, trek to Monjo 2880M (6 – 7 hours)
Day 4 Trek to Namche 3440M (5 – 6 hours)
Day 5 Namche acclimatization day (2-4 hours acclimatization hike to Everest View Hotel 3962M)
Day 6 Namche to Mende 3740M (6-8 hours)
Day 7 Mende to Kya Jo Ri base camp 4500M (6 hours)
Day 8 Rest and Base camp preparations
Day 9 Kya Jo Ri High Camp 5300M
Day 10 Camp 1, 5700M (5-6 hours)
Day 11 Summit 6186M and back to High camp (8 – 10 hours)
Day 12 Contingency day
Day 13 High camp to BC and trek to Khumjung (6-8 hours)
Day 14 Khumjung to Phortse 3840M (6 hours)
Day 15 Phortse to Cholatse Base Camp, 5000M (6 hours)
Day 16 Rest and preparations for Cholatse climb
Day 17 Camp 1, 5600M (6 – 8 hours)
Day 18 Camp 2, 6200M (4 – 5 hours)
Day 19 Summit 6440M or 6446M and back to base camp (10+ hours)
Day 20 – 22 Contingency day (3 days)
(Fly back from BC to Lukla/Kathmandu. Inquire for helicopter charter price quote)
Day 23 BC to Phortse (5 hours)
Day 24 Phortse to Namche Bazaar (5 – 6 hours)
Day 25 Namche to Lukla (6 – 8hours)
Day 26 Lukla to Kathmandu (6 – 8 hours)
Day 27 Departure
ACCOMMODATIONS
Day 1 – 2 and 26 (Kathmandu 5-star hotel)
CHOLATSE EXPEDITION STRATEGY
KYAJO RI 6186M (TECHNICAL CLIMB + ACCLIMATIZATION PEAK)
Kyajo Ri, standing tall at 6186 meters, serves as an excellent acclimatization climb for the Cholatse expedition. This peak presents a technical challenge, offering climbers an opportunity to hone their skills before taking on the more demanding ascent of Cholatse. With its intricate routes and varying degrees of difficulty, Kyajo Ri provides a perfect platform for acclimatization while allowing climbers to familiarize themselves with steep sections and technical terrain.
Ascending Kyajo Ri not only aids in adjusting to higher altitudes but also offers panoramic vistas of the surrounding Himalayan landscape, including stunning views of the Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu peaks. Climbers can expect a mix of steep ascents, traverses, and snow/ice sections, preparing them adequately for the subsequent climb of Cholatse. Overall, Kyajo Ri stands as a valuable intermediate climb, preparing adventurers for the challenges that lie ahead on the grander ascent of Cholatse.
🏔Cholatse expedition consists of 2 high camps. We will climb through the southwest ridge route, which is the safest commercial route comparatively. Once established in Base Camp 5000M, we will set up a fixed-line and move loads to camp1-2 and summit. The harder and more technical climbing of this expedition begins from camp 1 leading up the southwest ridge of the mountain.
BASE CAMP (5000M), ICEFALL TO – CAMP 1 (5700M)
Cholatse Base Camp 4529M
We will have 1 to 2 acclimatization rotations. Once we leave the base camp and after hiking 400M high up the grassy moraine, we will arrive at the crampon point, which is about 100M away from the icefall. As we reach onto the icefall, climbing through the zigzag icefall route will lead us under the ice headwall which is about 150M high. The headwall is about 45-50 degrees. Climbers will have to fix themselves onto the fixed line rope and climb the wall, which leads to a flat section just above the west col. Here we will set up our camp 1 (5700M) on the flat small pleateu part above the col. The views down the valley to Gokyo valley are fantastic from here.
CAMP 1 (5600M) – CAMP 2 (6200M)
This will be the hardest part of the entire expedition. The route from camp 1 to camp 2 is about 600M high, on the southwest ridge of the mountain, which is super exposed and consists of mixed terrains. The climb is strenuous and there is just one small area to rest.
The first 100M – 150M is steep climbing, to the top of the rocky slab section. From there the route leads behind the ridge of the mountains on a rocky, loose and unstable area. The rocks are unstable and there is little protection when climbing up the face of the mountain. Climbers will have to scramble on exposed slabs (sometimes loose) rocks, which then leads to the end of the rocky section before reaching the nice flat part which is the only spot to rest before pressing ahead.
Cholatse Camp 2 6000M
The climb then follows an uphill steep climb onto the knife-edge ridge section, 400M upwards mostly on the snow/icy surface. The climb uphill is another 45 – 60 degrees steep. The drop on either side of the mountain ridge is crazily exposed. High above a big chunk of ice/snow hump can be seen, where our team will establish camp 2 (6200M). About 75M – 50M short of camp 2, the route gets rather challenging and uneven, where climbers will come across ice mushroom wall formations and seracs. Technical climbing skills are necessary. You will need to traverse and somewhat climb with alpine style, ice climbing to get navigate the uneven terrains to get to camp 2. Extra attention is needed to reach at the top where camp 2 will be established by the guiding team.
CAMP 2 – SUMMIT 6440M (TRUE SUMMIT 6446M)
The climb from Camp 2 to the summit is about 256m climbs. As you look up from camp 2 it does look like a fairly straight climb but the route gets super narrow and steep on both sides. Another knife-edge section and a couple of crevasse openings on the route. The climb gets technical and difficult. Climbers will have to be careful at this height of not slipping onto any sides of the mountain. Once past the ridge section, you will come upon a relatively flatter area on the summit at around 6440M. The true summit lies 5M – 6M ahead but is very tricky with just a small pyramid structure that may hold only one person at a time.