7 – 14 DAYS
1:1 GUIDE RATIO | 🚁 HELICOPTER, IN AND OUT
COST: (Shared 🚁) Ktm – Lukla – Namche – Base Camp – Lukla – Kathmandu
$17750 + Hypoixic Equipment Rental Shipping cost** Hypoxic equipment rentals for 5 weeks is included in the price
Please inquire about prices in your local currency. We accept payment in £GBP/ €EUROS/ $AUD
Deposit required: $4000 p/p
2024 AMA DABLAM DEPARTURES—
Autumn 2024
4th – 17th November
All-inclusive expedition. Guaranteed departure.
ADDITIONAL GUIDE—
$4000 USD
Only applies if there is only 1 climbing member.
EXPRESS CLIMB HIGHLIGHTS. . .
- 1:1 Guide/client ratio. IFMGA certified guide with express guiding experiences, at least 1X Ama Dablam & several 8000M+ Summits, high level of support, experience, and guiding knowledge.
- Ama Dablam 6810M summit in 14 Days or less. Express itinerary
- South-west ridge route, Camp 1 – 2 (possible camp 2.9 or 3) strategy
- 🚁 Shared helicopter before and after the expedition
- 5 Weeks of hypoxic acclimatization equipment rental, programming, and initial training consultation.
SUMMIT RECORDS BY NAMAS ADVENTURE TEAM—
Our Express team summited Ama Dablam in 5 days. Kathmandu to Ama Dablam Bc. Under the guidance of Lead Guide Pega Sherpa.
Ama Dablam 6812M is renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountains in the Khumbu region. It is a highly sought-after mountain for climbing enthusiasts. Achieve this remarkable feat in 14 days or less. Our express programs cater specifically to those individuals who harbor the profound desire to ascend Ama Dablam but face time constraints that prevent them from committing to the conventional 30-day itinerary. To embark on our express expedition, clients must first engage in a rigorous 4-5 weeks of at-home hypoxic acclimatization. We provide the necessary hypoxic equipment rentals as part of the expedition package (shipping cost applies), ensuring you have all the tools needed for a successful climb. Whether you plan to tackle it before or after a bigger expedition like Mt. Everest, Ama Dablam is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Many alpinists and mountaineers consider a climb of Ama Dablam to be a “must-do” experience.
Pre-requisite requirements (2 or more 6000M + multi-pitch climbing skills): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua, Mt, Blanc (Similar 4000M – 6000M peaks or higher), and multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c
History: Ama Dablam was first summited on 13th March 1961, a Silver hut scientific expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary. Ama Dablam’s expedition has been a dream for many mountaineers. Its Southwest ridgeline is the safest route to climb this amazing peak.
Note: While this opens up exciting expedited possibilities, it’s essential to maintain our focus on a well-rounded approach to climbing. Our goal isn’t just speed; it’s about combining all the essential elements of a safe and successful ascent, while also embracing the speed climbing factor. Safety remains our paramount concern during every expedited climb.
EXPEDITION HIGHLIGHTS
- 1:1 Guide/client ratio. IFMGA certified guide with express guiding experiences, at least 1X Ama Dablam & several 8000M+ Summits, high level of support, experience, and guiding knowledge.
- Ama Dablam 6810M summit in 14 Days or less. Express itinerary
- South-west ridge route, Camp 1 – 2 (possible camp 2.9 or 3) strategy
- 🚁 Shared helicopter before and after the expedition
- 5 Weeks of hypoxic acclimatization equipment rental, programming, and initial training consultation.
EXPRESS ITINERARY
Day 1 Arrival and Gear Check day
Day 2 Kathmandu – 🚁 Lukla – Namche (Acclimatisation)
Day 3 Namche – Ama Dablam BC (Via heli)
Day 4 Rest day
Day 5 Camp 1 Sleep
Day 6 Camp 2 touch and back to BC
Day 7 rest
Day 8 Camp 1
Day 9 Camp 2
Day 10 Summit Day and back to Camp 2 or 1
(Climbing days 4 – 12 can be adjusted if members prefer not to conduct rotations and climb straight with more contingency days)
Day 11-12 Contingency Days
Day 13 BC – Lukla – Kathmandu Via Helicharter
Day 14 Departure
EXPRESS CLIMBING METHODOLOGY
Photo by – NGS Photography
Harnessing cutting-edge advancements in medical science and pioneering technologies, an increasing number of ambitious souls can now embark on an extraordinary journey to climb Ama Dablam within an expedited timeframe. The results have been unequivocally demonstrated, leading us to firmly believe that the time has come for the inception of the express expedition itinerary. This revolutionary approach shall become the new standard for those bound by time constraints, recognizing that not everyone possesses the luxury of unlimited time, the most invaluable of commodities.
Through the meticulously guided implementation of pre-hypoxic acclimatization and comprehensive training preparation, the once elusive goal of summiting Ama Dablam in 14 Days or less has been transformed into a tangible reality. Each member of our esteemed team will receive personalized consultations, expert guidance, and specialized training programs from the world’s leading athletic laboratory, located in London. With an unwavering dedication to your success, we proudly present the Ama Dablam Express expedition, offering an exclusive opportunity to partake in this extraordinary feat. To facilitate your training, participants will be granted access to cutting-edge altitude training equipment from the UK’s foremost specialists. Detailed instructions for equipment setup, along with personalized online consultations and individually tailored training programs, specifically designed to fast-track your Everest expedition, shall be provided.
For our members based in London membership access to the center can be provided and throughout the United Kingdom, personal access to the center is readily available upon schedule (Additional cost applies). Alternatively, for our members abroad, gear rentals can be efficiently shipped (shipping costs + customs apply), complemented by scheduled online meetings to ensure seamless communication and support throughout your transformative journey.
PERSONAL CONSULTATION
Participating members will embark on an exceptional journey guided by a personal consultation with a dedicated representative from Namas, alongside a professional member of our esteemed altitude training center who previously have experience working with express climbing summiteers. Together, we will provide you with invaluable guidance, expertise, and support to ensure your transformational experience reaches its full potential. This personalized consultation will pave the way for a tailored approach that aligns with your unique aspirations and sets the stage for an extraordinary adventure of a lifetime.
PRE-REQUISITE CHECKS AND PREPARATIONS (MUSTS)
In order to ensure the highest level of readiness and safety, acceptance into the program will be granted to participating members following a thorough assessment and consultation process. It is imperative that client members meet our established pre-requisite requirements, and their personal fitness profiles will be meticulously evaluated. These pre-checks, consultations, and preparations form the bedrock of our approach, as they are vital components for successfully undertaking the Ama Dablam expedition within a condensed timeframe.
A significant focus will be placed on comprehensive pre-acclimatization and training methodologies. These pivotal elements will empower participants to adapt to the demanding altitude conditions and optimize their physical preparedness. By prioritizing these crucial aspects, we equip our members with the tools and resilience needed to conquer the formidable challenges that lie ahead on their extraordinary Ama Dablam express climbing journey.
PRE-HYPOXIC ACCLIMATIZATION AND GUIDED TRAINING
Hypoxic chamber acclimatization: Minimum 4 weeks, 5 weeks recommended.
Participating members will engage in a comprehensive hypoxic acclimatization and training regimen lasting for a minimum of 4 weeks (recommended duration max 5 weeks) to facilitate adaptation. The specific acclimatization timeline and training objectives will be tailored to each member’s individual profile, and it is essential that these targets are diligently met to ensure the success of the express climb. Optimal results are achieved when participants commit to a longer duration (5 weeks) of deliberate hypoxic chamber acclimatization, enhancing their ability to adapt effectively before commencing the renowned Ama Dablam base camp journey and embarking on the fast-track ascent to the summit.
ABOUT HYPOXIC TRAINING. . .
Reduction of oxygen during physical activity or exercise in order to strengthen the body’s ability to perform in low-oxygen conditions is the basis of hypoxic training methods. Those who frequently train in oxygen-deprived environments include athletes, military personnel and those who regularly need to perform in situations with lower levels of oxygen, like high altitudes or underwater.
Reducing inhaled oxygen can be achieved via hypoxic chambers or masks, whereas high altitude training utilizes the natural thinness of the air to lower oxygen levels. Simulating low-oxygen conditions is also possible through exercises or unique breathing techniques. These are several ways hypoxic training can be implemented.
Training under hypoxic conditions can prove quite useful, but those results come with a fair share of risks. It’d be wise to consider an individual’s suitability before opting for this kind of training. Any exercising program that intentionally decreases oxygen intake should first be discussed with a medical expert. It’s vital to consult with a healthcare professional before beginning any such routine.
HYPOXIC TRAINING PROGRAM. . .
The training program will be rigorous and demanding, spanning a period of 4-5 weeks. Additionally, members are expected to have commenced their own personal training regimen 4-6 months prior to embarking on the acclimatization and training phase.
This comprehensive program can be completed conveniently at home, utilizing hypoxic tents.
Each climber will receive an individualized training schedule and will undergo acclimatization over a minimum of 4-week period, gradually ascending to an altitude of approximately 6,000 meters. This strategic approach minimizes the need for extensive on-mountain acclimatization, which carries inherent risks and can be physically taxing.
As a result, the total duration of the expedition can be significantly reduced to a remarkable 2 weeks. By committing to this rigorous and carefully orchestrated regimen, you are embarking on a transformative journey towards conquering Everest, equipped with the necessary physical and mental resilience to realize your ambitious aspirations.
Please note that hypoxic chamber acclimatization may present certain challenges, such as potentially reduced recovery effectiveness and disruption to sleeping patterns.
It is important to consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new training program, especially one that involves intentional reduction of oxygen. It is also important to carefully monitor your body’s response to hypoxic training and to stop the program if you experience any adverse effects. Hypoxic training can be risky and may not be suitable for everyone.
STRATEGIC EMERGENCY SUPPLEMENTAL OXYGEN
A dedicated emergency provision of supplemental oxygen will be provided for the express climb approach. Members will benefit from an allocation of additional double to triple the usual amount of supplemental oxygen, with flow rates ranging from 4L per minute. Our team is committed to utilizing the highest-quality oxygen systems, ensuring optimal performance and reliability throughout the duration of the expedition. From Camp 1 (5800m) onwards, supplemental oxygen will be made available to all members for any emergency use. Your personal oxygen system will allow for a flow rate of up to 4L per minute (Maximum), catering to your specific needs and maximizing your comfort and safety at high altitudes.
The responsibility of carrying and depositing the oxygen supply rests with our experienced Sherpa team. Each member will be accompanied by 1 Sherpa certified guide, who will assist in shouldering the burden of carrying the personal oxygen systems. An additional member of the Sherpa team will be specifically designated to handle the transportation and depositing of oxygen systems at the higher camps. Through this meticulous arrangement, we ensure that your focus remains firmly on the climb itself, while our dedicated team attends to the logistical aspects, guaranteeing a seamless and supported experience.
More in FAQs
AMA DABLAM EXPRESS SCHEDULE
The precise itinerary of the Ama Dablam Express expedition is designed to be highly flexible, accommodating individual circumstances. The departure schedules of our members need to be highly flexible. The climbing schedule and strategy will be shaped by factors such as weather patterns, snow conditions, and the progress of line fixing along the route.
Upon reaching base camp, our dedicated team will have already initiated comprehensive preparations, including oxygen deposits, Sherpa support, base camp set-up, route selection, and high camp arrangements. These meticulous preparations lay the foundation for a fast-track, successful ascent to the summit of Ama Dablam, allowing members to focus on the journey ahead.
We prioritize flexibility throughout the expedition, allowing for potential extensions if circumstances necessitate and participants desire. We recognize that a systematic approach is crucial for increasing the chances of success on an Ama Dablam climb. This entails considering factors such as experience, planning, skill, persistence, and training. A well-crafted strategy, combined with a solid system, serves as the key to a triumphant expedition to the peak of Ama Dablam.
EXPRESS EXPEDITION GOALS
At Namas Expedition, our mission extends beyond mere size or glamour. Our unwavering focus and top priorities revolve around three core principles:
- Summit Ama Dablam in 14 days or less: We are committed to attaining the pinnacle of success in reaching the summit of Ama dablam, prioritizing not only speed but also the highest safety standards. Our dedicated team strives to create a remarkable and memorable climbing experience, fostering an environment of camaraderie, fulfillment, and personal growth.
- In pursuit of these objectives, we consistently assemble and recruit the industry’s finest climbing guide leaders. 1 X Certified Guides are confirmed. These exceptional individuals possess unrivaled expertise, experience, and a profound commitment to safety and client satisfaction. With their guidance and leadership, we ensure that every climber receives unparalleled support, mentorship, and the highest standards of professionalism.
- Embodying Responsible, Ethical, and Sustainable Practices: We take great pride in being a beacon of responsible, ethical, and sustainable expedition operations. With a deep respect for the pristine natural environment of Ama Dablam and the communities that surround it, we diligently adhere to practices that minimize our ecological footprint, respect local cultures, and contribute to the preservation of the mountain’s fragile ecosystem.
AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION STRATEGY
Members will fly via helicopter 🚁 directly from Kathmandu to Lukla and then to Namche Bazaar, where they will conduct an acclimatization day.
Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M
Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M
The next day we fly via 🚁 helicopter to Ama Dablam base camp. Our team will set up 2-3 camps and climb through the safest route, the southwest Ridge. After establishing ourselves at Base Camp, and trekking up the moraine we will move higher to Camp 1 (5,807 meters/19,052 feet). From Camp 1, fixed-line ropes are used for traversing on solid granite and climbing on snow/rocky exposed ridges and vertical granite to Camp 2. Camp 2 (6,200 meters/20,594 feet), also known as the “YELLOW TOWER,” is reached after 60-70 feet of vertical rock climbing. This marks the start of the more difficult and objective dangerous part of the climb.
BASE CAMP (4529M) – CAMP 1 (5800M) AND CAMP 2 (6100M) ROTATION
Camp 2 Ama Dablam
Camp 2 Ama Dablam
Ama Dablam Expedition
Renaye, climbing to mushroom ridge, Ama Dablam Expedition. Photo – Masaru Kanda
From Days 4 to 12, we will review weather patterns and conduct acclimatization rotations after discussion with the members and get accustomed to the terrain and properly acclimatize our bodies for the final summit push. During these rotations, we will carry our personal gear to our camps and store it there.
The very exposed nature of the route on Ama Dablam provides exciting climbing, although the slope is not as steep as one might expect. Climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt this route. On summit day, the route crosses between ice cliffs and follows a snow arête directly to the 6,810 meter summit. However, the climb is physically demanding and requires long hours of climbing on the final summit day.
CAMP 2.1 OR CAMP 3 (6400M) (SITUATIONAL) AND SUMMIT BID
Ama Dablam summit 6810M
Ama Dablam summit 6810M
After evaluating the safety and conditions of the serac, we will decide whether to set up camp 3. If our lead Sherpa determines that the campsite is dangerous, we will make our summit attempt from Camp 2, starting in the early hours. (midnight or 1 aa)
The summit of Ama Dablam is wide and offers breathtaking views on clear weather days. Many of the 8000-meter and 7000-meter peaks are visible from the top of Ama Dablam, including Makalu (8463 meters) and the Baruntse range (7170 meters).
WHAT’S INCLUDED
- IFMGA/NMA certified Guide leader
- 🚁 Helicopter Kathmandu – Lukla – Namche – Base Camp – Lukla – Kathmandu
- $250 Individual tip pool. (This is not summit bonus tips) The tip pool will be fairly distributed among all 14Kexpeditions staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
- 1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional Sherpa Guide support can be arranged, extra charges apply)
- Head chef and 2 kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members )
- 1 upon arrival and 1 day before departure. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
- All trekking permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
- All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
- Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek days. (one meal order)
- Lodge accommodation during the trek
- Full porter support to/from Base Camp
- Fooding and camp lodging arrangements at Base Camp on a full board basis (this includes 3-course meals, services of cook crew, camping equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, kitchen items etc)
- 30 kgs personal weight
- Single tent for individual use at Base Camp
- Solar charging at Base Camp (Comms will be given the first priority)
- Tents, pots, and pans for use on the mountain
- Expedition tents (2 or 1 person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
- Food and fuel above Ama Dablam Base Camp. Minimum choices from Camp I to Camp III.
- Meals and water at higher camps will be prepared by Namas guide member
- Training day with technical skills. This is not a course day and you should already be well familiar with abseiling and basic climbing techniques
- Ropes, climbing gear required for equipping the mountain, ice screws, snow stakes, etc
- Expedition 1st aid kit including antibiotics and medicines for use at altitude
- Insurance for Base Camp crew, climbing Sherpa, and porters
- Radio comms team at Base camp
- Frequent weather updates on expeditions
- Arrival pick-up and departure
- Welcome or Farewell Dinner
WHAT’S NOT INCLUDED
- Visas and travel insurance
- Summit Bonus Tips ($500 – $700) Per Person
- Entertainment and food ( Kathmandu )
- Bottled drinks and beverages
- Evacuation (will be done in your account)
- Single supplement Charges
- Laundry, Phone services, Personal expenditure transactions
- Optional trips
- Tea breaks, chocolates or other snacks, and any meals besides breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
- Delay and cancellation because of natural phenomenon
- International flights to Kathmandu
SKILLS REQUIRED.
Amadablam is a climbers mountain. You will need exceptional physical fitness and climbing skills. Clients should be able to take care of themselves during climbing days. Eating well, staying hydrated from the start of the expedition, making sure your gears are in check and functional during the climb should be your second nature. Your Sherpa expedition leader will guide and motivate you throughout but a lot of the effort lies within you and your ability to climb. We suggest certain skills especially for Amadablam style expedition.
- Rock climbing indoors and outdoors – (i) learn the basics of wearing harness and helmets (ii) tying figure 8 knot and stopper knot (iii) basics of using belaying device correctly (iv) Use ascending and descending devices (iv) basics of using ropes , start/end when climbing (v) learning knowledge of moving while using the gears and being checking the safety features simultaneously.
- The more experience you have on rock climbing, taking on tougher rotes in different types of rock, the better it is for you to get familiar with climbing style and adjusting during the expeditions.
- Abseiling. This is the simplest yet the one of the most important skills to master. Some multi – pitch abseiling knowledge/experience are also required
- Climbing on different terrains. Slab rocks, vertical rocks. Scrambling on steep terrains.
- Use of Crampons and Ice axe. Winter ice climbing or mountaineering courses are recommended. You should be able to kick step and balance with ice axe on icy slopes to ascend on vertical climb. Ice arrest skills to save your self incase of slips or fall, being comfortable while descending and abseiling with crampons in all types of terrains.
- Climbing in Altitude. We will be climbing Island peak as a training/acclimatising peak. Your prior experience in climbing should give you a good understanding of how your body copes in high altitude. You are responsible to build you fitness up to the best level. Our itineraries are designed to be able to help you with proper acclimatisation. Equally important clients have to be aware of their eating pattern and staying hydrated.
( All training will be provided in Amadablam base camp by your expedition leader, to refresh your skill memories and get you started into climbing )
ADD’S ON. . .
- Personal Sherpa $3200 p/p
- Extra Oxygen bottle $250 per bottle
ALPINE / FITNESS GRADING
ALPINE GRADING
F (Easy) These routes involve easy glacier travel and may require some rock scrambling. Except for the glacier sections, you can often climb ropeless.
PD (Little Difficult) These routes involve some technical climbing sections and glaciers of higher difficulty. There may also be some short sections of steep terrain. They are good introductory climbs for beginners.
AD (Fairly Difficult) These are physically demanding routes for experienced alpine climbers. They usually have steep and exposed climbing sections or snow/ice slopes over 50°. The descents are long and more complicated, and most of the route requires to be roped.
D (Difficult) These routes involve sustained rock climbing, ice climbing or snow travel. They are considered a significant undertaking and demand a huge commitment.
TD (Very Difficult) Highly technical climbs that involve long distances, remote locations, and hard multi-pitch climbing sections. Besides, there are often other hazards like bad weather (extreme cold, strong winds) or poor protection on the routes.
ED (Extremely difficult) These are extreme climbs (the most difficult in the world, actually!) with continuous difficulties. They take several days to be completed.
FITNESS GRADING
1- Fitness level to be able to enjoy multi-day walks of 6-7 hours per day. Should be able to carry 5-8kg of weight during the activity days.
2 – Good level of cardio-vascular fitness and strength fitness needed. Can train by running or cycling 30+ min 3/4 times a week combined with some gym session of endurance or lower body straightening. Should be able to carry 10kgs during the activity day.
3 – High level of fitness level required both in strengthening and endurance fitness level. Should be able to carry 8 -12 kgs of the load. Training or gym sessions are required to attain this level of fitness. Previous experience of multi-day hill walking is essential.
4 – Exceptional level of all-round fitness will be required to cope with the exceptionally strenuous nature of these expeditions. Exceptional level of endurance and strength fitness level is required. Mental toughness aspect is equally required. Experience is required to be able to take on tours of this physical grading.
5 – Exceptional level of all-round fitness coupled with the ability to cope and resist at the highest altitude. Exceptional level of endurance and strength fitness level is required with high degree of mental toughness. A resistance to extreme weather conditions over extended periods of time. Heavy loads over multiple days may need to be carried. Previous experience is highly crucial in order to prepare your body to endure a high level of mental and physical toughness from both altitude and terrain.
DOWNLOAD TRAINING PLAN TEMPLATE – 7000M TO 8000M+
DOWNLOAD TRAINING PLAN TEMPLATE – UPTO 6500M
ROCK CLIMBING ROUTE GRADING
Class 5: Technical and belayed roping with protection is required. Not for novice climbers. Any fall from a Class 5 could be fatal.
Class 5 sub-categories
5.1-5.4: Easy. A steep section that has large handholds and footholds. Suitable for beginners.
5.5-5.8: Intermediate. Small footholds and handholds. Low-angle to vertical terrain. Beginner to intermediate rock climbing skills required.
5.9-5.10: Hard. Technical and/or vertical, and may have overhangs. These hard climbs require specific climbing skills that most weekend climbers can attain.
5.11-5.12: Hard to Difficult. Technical and vertical, and may have overhangs with small holds. Dedicated climbers may reach this level with lots of practice.
5.13-5.15: Very Difficult. Strenuous climbing that’s technical and vertical, and may have overhangs with small holds. These routes are for expert climbers who train regularly and have lots of natural ability.
6.0: Can’t be free climbed. Devoid of hand- and footholds, the route can only be aid-climbed. An added rating of A1 through A5 further designates difficulty level.
Reference: REI
ICE CLIMBING GRADING
WI-1: General angle: 50 degrees. Easy, low-angled ice. Walking up ice where crampons are necessary. The easiest ice for which a belay rope would be used. A basic level of technical expertise for safety is required. General angle: 50 degrees.
WI-2: General angle: 60 degrees. Moderate, low-angled with possible bulges. Good protection and anchors.
WI-3: General angle: 70º with possible long bulges of 80º-90º; reasonable rests and good stances for placing screws. Steeper water ice, with longer bulges. Some continuous front-pointing but with good resting places between. Generally good protection, screws can be placed from comfortable stances. The ice is usually of good quality. Requires adeptness at placing protection and making belays.
WI-4: General angle: 80 degrees. Sustained climbing with some vertical sections, separated by good belays. The ice may have some technical features like chandeliers but generally, the quality of ice is good and offers secure protection and belays. Usually demands that screws be placed while on vertical or near-vertical ice. Fairly long sections of 90º ice broken up by occasional rests.
WI-5: General angle: 90 degrees. Long and strenuous, with a rope length of 85º- 90º ice offering few goods rests. Expertise in dealing with the different ice formations is required (e.g., chandeliers, cauliflowers, candled sections). Adequate protection requires effort to place. The climb may sometimes be run-out above protection. Belays may be difficult to create and/or hanging.
WI-6: General angle: 90+ degrees. A serious lead on severe and/or thin ice. Long vertical and/or overhanging sections, extremely sustained difficulties. Few, if any, resting sites. Ice may not be of the best quality, often thin, chandeliered, and hard to protect. Expert technique and a powerful, positive mind frame are prerequisites. Hanging belays of dubious quality may be required.
WI-7: General angle: 90++. Ice that is very thin, long, overhanging, or very technical. Free-hanging columns of dubious adhesion. This grade requires creative techniques to climb and to find protection. Protection may be non-existent. A very physical and emotional pitch. Total commitment is required. Protection is impossible or very difficult to place and of dubious quality. Belays require a very high level of expertise and may be marginal at best. This grade applies to only a handful of routes led by an even fewer number of world-class climbers.
Reference: Alpinist.com and neice.com
EXPEDITION FITNESS
When it comes to an expedition the more fitter you are and stronger the better your chances of successfully climbing to the summit and most of all enjoying the expedition. The grading system gives you an indication of the level required for each expedition both technically and physically. It is very important that you train and build your level of fitness depending on your choice of the expedition and whilst on expedition if your fitness is deemed to be inadequate our leaders would ask you to remain at camp. Please discuss with our guiding leaders how you feel and whether you can actually make that push during all climbing/expedition, as we take your and staff safety seriously and would not want any unchecked incidents or miss out on your successful summit bid.
ADVENTURE TRAVEL – ACCURACY OF ITINERARY
It is in our best interest to operate our expeditions as printed in the itinerary but due to unseen circumstances, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure, or other operational factors. As a consequence, the order or location of overnight stops and the duration of the day may vary from those outlined. We would ask for your patience in this case as a lot of these can be out of our hands and we will best decide to plan alternatives.
Our assigned leader is responsible for the overall safety of the whole team during the expedition and will encourage the use of safe climbing practices during the expedition. They will ensure that every opportunity is taken to fulfill the objectives described in the trip’s outline itinerary but have the freedom to modify any plans subject to weather, delays, or unforeseen circumstances that are deemed to be out of the control of Namas Adventure. The leader will maintain a good team spirit and attempt to keep morale high for the whole group. Wherever possible the leader will keep the Namas Adventure office informed of team progress and any emergency situations that may arise.
Local guides possess the detailed local knowledge we need to achieve our goals and support our teams. They do not guide in the same way as UIAGM/IFMGA Alpine Guides but work in the more traditional sense as route finders and assistants to our expedition leader. We encourage our groups to work as teams, helping to support and trust each other throughout the duration of the expedition.